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If I let it sit over night, it would put out 14v again when cold and then drop again to 12v once warmed up. Once the car warms up, it drops to 12 volts and it stays there as long as everything is warm. Whenever the car is cold, the alternator puts out 14v. Negative battery cable to alternator ground (body) Positive battery cable to positive alternator post I did a voltage drop test and got the following results: Price: Core: Total: Alternate: No parts for vehicles in selected.
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HONDA > 2010 > ACCORD > 3.5L V6 > Electrical > Alternator / Generator. In October of that year, the novelty appeared in Japanese car dealerships, and in 1997 its sales. Intentionally blank: Intentionally blank: Related Parts. The Honda CR-V, presented at the Tokyo Motor Show in 1995, was one of the first representatives of the crossover class, although at that time this name was not yet used. I also found out that power does go through the black/yellow alternator wire only when the engine is cold, but once it warms up, the power drops to either 0v or 20-60 milli volts (0.02-0.06v). Some HONDA CR-V Wiring Diagrams are above the page. I also checked the fuses and they all tested good both while the engine was cold and warmed up as well. I replaced the ELD and also tried installing another used alternator but neither one of them fixed them problem the charging light still comes on when the car warms up. This seems to always happen.Ĭould the problem be with the ELD unit or a bad pin on the alternator output pin on the ECU, and if so, how would I test for these potentially problems?
ALTERNATOR WIRE DIAGRAM 2010 HONDA ACCORD 3.5 FULL
So I put the original alternator back on and still the same thing, when at full charge everything is fine, the alternator. When the battery was at a full charge the alternator showed also to be charging (14.2 volts). After turing the car off and on several time the problem came back. I did have the battery disconnected during the entire job, but I wonder if when I turned the car on several hours later, even though everything looked dry, maybe there was an electrical spike in the alternator wire harness that may have shorted something out?Īlso, if I turn the car on first time during the day, I will get 14.24ish volts from the alternator, but after the car warms up, the voltage unexpectedly drops to 12.20volts and then the battery light comes on. Put it on, charge the battery and problem solved for a while. While I was replacing the clutch, there was a slight drizzle that got under the hood wet. I checked the alternator harness connector voltage while the engine is running and got the following results with the alternator output at 12.20ish volts: I checked to make sure I reconnected all the grounds after I finished the clutch job and didn't find any problem there. There's no check engine light on, only the battery light comes on after the engine runs for half an hour or so.
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I replaced the alternator and I have the same problem. When I parked, I checked the alternator output with my voltmeter and got about 12.20v while the engine was running. About a month and a half ago I replaced the clutch and after I finished, the battery light came on while I was driving home.